Tuesday, 14 October 2014

Project Brief & Understandings of Elizabethan Hair

For this project which is based of interpreting examples of Elizabethan hairstyles, it is vital for me to gain an understanding of what exactly was the norm during this period and what trends may have developed or faded. 

My research began by looking at the 'Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History' (Victoria Sherrow, 2006), this source proved very helpful in providing a concise overview of how the Elizabethans maintained and styles their locks. 

From what Ive read so far, my understanding of Elizabethan hair is that is was excessive in attention towards its appearance. Particuarly the upper class and those who attended court adhered to trends, which were soften strongly influenced by the queen. 

During the early 1500's women were known to wear hoods which would conceal a large proportion of the hair, however during Elizabeths reign these grew smaller in size with much more hair now on show. 

Elizabeth had distinctive red-gold hair which proved popular among her people. Many women dyed their hair or wore headpieces to imitate this tone. One of the mixtures used to achieve this included rhubarb juice and sulphuric acid which actually caused the hair to fall out. 

According to this source, Elizabethans only cleansed their hair using a dry powder which would absorb excess oil and dirt which is slightly ironic considering that in recent years dry shampoo has seen a huge boost in popularity, particularly on the festival scene. 

"A high forehead was in style" which could partly have been due to receding hairlines caused by chemicals to dye the hair but a high forehead was also considered a sign of nobility during this time. 
The idea of the high forehead is seen throughout many Elizabethan portraits, take for example the Clopton portrait c.1560 which features Elizabeth I. Her forehead appears particularly large in this image which is emphasises by her pale complexion and almost non-existent eyebrows. 
(http://www.pinterest.com/pin/497436721314223836/)
Personally, I find this trend quite grotesque. I find it makes the sitter appear very masculine and almost alien looking. However, I do understand the reasoning behind this, Elizabeth held one of the most powerful positions in the world and it was very important for her to put across the message to her own nation and others that she was a powerful but most importantly wise and cunning monarch. 

Elizabethans also adorned the hair with items such as "feathers, jewels and various kinds of nets and bags" take for example the Portrait of a Lady c. 1595, the woman in question is widely considered to be Catherine, Countess of Nottingham. 
(http://tinyurl.com/pg7hkmf)
In this portrait the sitters hairstyle is pilled on top of the head in tight curls, possible held in place with a net. Although the image quality is poor, you can see  that the hairstyle is adorned with what looks like pearls, which are placed quite neatly and strategically throughout the hair. According to the Encyclopedia women would bundle the hair at the back of the neck 'in to a net made from silk threads, sometimes trimmed with jewels or gold'. in this portrait, Catherine is clearly a women of high standing and nobility as among many other signs, her hair is adorned with highly expensive jewels.  


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