Elizabethan Hairstyles

(A History of Women's Hairstyles, Jean Keyes - Page 10) 

This illustration dated 1589 is a less commonly seen style from the Elizabethan era. Unlike most hairstyles, the hair in this illustration is straight. I like how dramatic the shape created is, it's similar to the symmetrical heart shape seen in portraits of Elizabeth I. This style was probably achieved using the process of 'frizzing' and pulling the styled hair over structures to help shape the style. I also find the addition of rose buds to be a very nice touch, it's also a very poignant affect as the rose was traditional a symbol of the Tudor Monarchy. 

(A History of Women's Hairstyles, Jean Keyes - Page 6) 

This illustration dated mid 1500's features a large proportion of the hair comb in to an almost beehive like shape on the back of the head with plaits adorning the back of the hair style. I particularly like how in this example not all of the hair is included in the backcombed piece. the contrast between the straight hair which is pulled taught into position against the tight curls in the bangs at the front is interesting. This is a hairstyle that would be quite ideal for me as I have shorter bangs which could be curled tightly to emulate this style. 

(A History of Women's Hairstyles, Jean Keyes - Page 8)

In this example of the hair is again straight and shaped around the top of the head in to heart shape. Unlike the other styles Ive looked at this one features an attifet around the hairstyle. An Attifet heart shaped hood that covers the hair. For this style it is almost certain that wire or padding was used to structure the hair in place and achieve the desired look. 

(http://www.picpicx.com/elizabeth-i-of-england)

In this Portrait of Elizabeth I, unknown artist, her hair appears piled on top of the head in very tight curls like many of her portraits. What I like most about this example is how some of the hair is left down flowing on to the shoulders, slightly looser in curl. What Im not so keen on is the shape of the hair which piled on top of the head, it's almost a heart shape...but isn't defined enough to be sure. Another aspect of this elizabethan style i like is how the style is heavily adorned with jewels which adds a feel of luxury and wealth. 

Understanding of Elizabethan Hair - 2

What Ive learnt of Elizabethan Hairstyles so far is concerned with natural hair. From my reading of 'A History of Womens Hairstyles' (Jean Keyes, 1967) Ive found that "Periwigs" were increasingly popular during the late 1500's. By this time apparently hair had become so complicated and uncomfortable that many women shaved their hair and wore a complete periwig. 
It is thought that "Queen Elizabeth had as many as eighty dyed periwigs". "Periwigs were mostly made up of either tiny curls or hair frizzed in to tiny waves", the hair would then be built in to a variety of shapes, usually very symmetrical and often had a pronounced peak at the forehead. 

There term "Frizzing" is a term coined from fashions in France during the 16th century and was done in a similar way to modern 'back-combing'. 

(Illustration, page 10 of mentioned source)

In this illustration which accompanies the chapter you can see very tightly wound curls which are piled on top of the head in a symmetrical heart shape which, as mentioned, meets at a point on the centre of the forehead. The way the curls are so tight leads me to think that this is an example of a periwig. This example 

Project Brief & Understandings of Elizabethan Hair

For this project which is based of interpreting examples of Elizabethan hairstyles, it is vital for me to gain an understanding of what exactly was the norm during this period and what trends may have developed or faded. 

My research began by looking at the 'Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History' (Victoria Sherrow, 2006), this source proved very helpful in providing a concise overview of how the Elizabethans maintained and styles their locks. 

From what Ive read so far, my understanding of Elizabethan hair is that is was excessive in attention towards its appearance. Particuarly the upper class and those who attended court adhered to trends, which were soften strongly influenced by the queen. 

During the early 1500's women were known to wear hoods which would conceal a large proportion of the hair, however during Elizabeths reign these grew smaller in size with much more hair now on show. 

Elizabeth had distinctive red-gold hair which proved popular among her people. Many women dyed their hair or wore headpieces to imitate this tone. One of the mixtures used to achieve this included rhubarb juice and sulphuric acid which actually caused the hair to fall out. 

According to this source, Elizabethans only cleansed their hair using a dry powder which would absorb excess oil and dirt which is slightly ironic considering that in recent years dry shampoo has seen a huge boost in popularity, particularly on the festival scene. 

"A high forehead was in style" which could partly have been due to receding hairlines caused by chemicals to dye the hair but a high forehead was also considered a sign of nobility during this time. 
The idea of the high forehead is seen throughout many Elizabethan portraits, take for example the Clopton portrait c.1560 which features Elizabeth I. Her forehead appears particularly large in this image which is emphasises by her pale complexion and almost non-existent eyebrows. 

(http://www.pinterest.com/pin/497436721314223836/)

Personally, I find this trend quite grotesque. I find it makes the sitter appear very masculine and almost alien looking. However, I do understand the reasoning behind this, Elizabeth held one of the most powerful positions in the world and it was very important for her to put across the message to her own nation and others that she was a powerful but most importantly wise and cunning monarch. 

Elizabethans also adorned the hair with items such as "feathers, jewels and various kinds of nets and bags" take for example the Portrait of a Lady c. 1595, the woman in question is widely considered to be Catherine, Countess of Nottingham. 

(http://tinyurl.com/pg7hkmf)

In this portrait the sitters hairstyle is pilled on top of the head in tight curls, possible held in place with a net. Although the image quality is poor, you can see  that the hairstyle is adorned with what looks like pearls, which are placed quite neatly and strategically throughout the hair. According to the Encyclopedia women would bundle the hair at the back of the neck 'in to a net made from silk threads, sometimes trimmed with jewels or gold'. in this portrait, Catherine is clearly a women of high standing and nobility as among many other signs, her hair is adorned with highly expensive jewels.